Cosmetics

Do you want to claim the safety of your raw materials, finished products and packaging?

Regulation

• REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and restriction of Chemicals) - Regulation no. 1907/2006 of 18/12/2006 (in force on 01/06/2007)
• Organic cosmetic label - COSMOS - standard cosmetics organic and natural standard - v3.0
• European eco-label for rinse-off cosmetic products - Decision 2014/893/EU
• Product claims - EU regulation no. 655/2013 of 10/07/2013

Our adapted analytical offer

Biodegradability of raw materials

Demonstrate that your raw materials are "easily biodegradable"!

• Ready biodegradability OECD 301 A: Dissolved Organic Carbon die-away test
• Ready biodegradability OECD 301 B: Carbon dioxide release test
• Ready biodegradability OECD 301 D: Closed bottle test
• Ready biodegradability OECD 301 F: Oxygen consumption test

Biodegradability of finished products

Using the same methods as for raw materials, display the percentage of biodegradability of your finished products after 28 days!

Warning: you cannot use the term "readily biodegradable" for a finished product.

In this case, why test the finished product?

• Because it is impossible to predict the result of the addition of raw materials (cocktail effect).
• To be able to make a claim on the finished product (cf. EU regulation no. 655/2013 of 10/07/2013).

Tests:

• Ready biodegradability OECD 301 A: Dissolved Organic Carbon die-away test
• Ready biodegradability OECD 301 B: Carbon dioxide release test
• Ready biodegradability OECD 301 D: Closed bottle test
• Ready biodegradability OECD 301 F: Oxygen consumption test

Other biodegradability assays on raw materials and finished products

• Intrinsic biodegradability OECD 302 B: Zahn-Wellens test
• Intrinsic biodegradability OECD 302 C: Modified MITI test (II)

Biodegradability of packaging, plastics and other solid materials

Validate the biodegradable and compostable nature of packaging, plastics and other materials!

• For the biodegradation of plastic materials in industrial composting: certification according to the NF EN 14995 standard.
• For the biodegradation of packaging in industrial composting: certification according to the NF EN 13432 standard.
• For the biodegradation of plastics in household composting: certification according to the NF T 51-800 standard.

The test protocol process can be broken down into the following 4 stages:

• Composition analysis of the sample: verification that the heavy metal concentrations do not exceed the thresholds of the NF EN 13432 standard.
• Biodegradability test according to ISO 14855: respirometry test and comparison with the reference cellulose.
• Disintegration test according to ISO 16929: test of the product's ability to fragment under the effect of composting (the acceptability threshold is that at least 90% of the initial mass passes through a 2 mm mesh sieve).
• OECD 208 ecotoxicity test: verification of the quality of the compost by observing germination and biomass.

Ecotoxicity tests

• Duckweed – Lemna minor – NF EN ISO 20079
Growth inhibition assay (chronic toxicity)

• Daphnia – Daphnia magna – NF EN ISO 6341 / OECD 202
Daphnia immobilisation assay after 24 hours / 48 hours (acute toxicity)

• Ceriodaphnia – Ceriodaphnia dubia – NF ISO 20665
Growth inhibition and reproduction inhibition assay (chronic toxicity)

• Freshwater algae – Pseudokirchneriella subcapitata – NF EN ISO 8692 / OECD 201
Algae growth inhibition assay (algae chronic toxicity)

• Rotifers – Brachionus calicyflorus – NF ISO 20666
Growth inhibition assay (chronic toxicity)

• Microtox – Vibrio fischeri – NF EN ISO 11348-3
Bacterial luminescence inhibition assay (acute toxicity)

• Coral cuttings – Seriatopora Hystrix - method developed in-house
Study of the retraction of polyps and whitening of cuttings (acute toxicity)

• Marine algae – Phaeodactylum tricornutum – NF EN ISO 10253
Growth inhibition assays (acute toxicity)

• Bivalves – Crassostrea gigas – NF ISO 17244
Study of embryonic development

• Sea urchins – Paracentrotus lividus – internal methods
Study of embryonic development and/or spermiotoxicity assay

• Shellfish – Artemia salina – adapted from FD ISO 14669
Determination of acute lethal toxicity to marine copepods (acute toxicity)

• Amphipods – Corophium arenarium – NF EN ISO 16712
Mortality assay (acute toxicity)

• Rotifers – Brachionus plicatilis – non-standardised method
Mortality assay (acute toxicity)

Complementary analyses in Endocrine Disruption

• Thyroid disruption test: XETA (OECD 248)
Evaluation of all the thyroid mechanisms common to vertebrates - amphibian embryo – XP-T90-716-1 standard.

•  Estrogenic disruption test: REACTIV (OECD filing in progress)
Evaluation of all the estrogenic mechanisms common to vertebrates – fish embryo – XP-T90-716-2 standard

• Androgenic disruption test: RADAR (OECD evaluation in progress)
Evaluation of all the androgenic mechanisms common to vertebrates – fish embryo – XP-T90-716-2 standard

• YES/YAS (Yeast Estrogen Screen/Yeast Androgen Screen) test on Saccharomyces Cerevisiae yeast
Confirmation of a specific endocrine mechanism for the estrogen or androgen receptor alpha.

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